Why Does My Pressure Pump Keep Running? Low Water Pressure Causes and Fixes
In most North Cyprus homes, mains water first fills a tank on the roof or in the garden, and a pressure pump — known locally as a hidrofor — pushes it to the taps. A pump that never stops, or a shower that barely trickles, is annoying and shortens the pump's life. This guide covers the usual causes, the checks you can safely do yourself and when to call a plumber.
How a pressure pump system works
The system has three main parts: the pump, a pressure tank (expansion vessel) holding a cushion of air, and a pressure switch that turns the pump on and off. When you open a tap, pressure in the line drops and the switch starts the pump; when the tap closes and pressure reaches the set level, the pump stops.
The pressure tank stops the pump from starting every time someone fills a glass of water. In a healthy system the pump runs only while water is being used and goes quiet soon after. A pump that runs with nothing open, or switches on and off in quick bursts, is telling you something is wrong.
Why the pump keeps running or cycles too often
The most common causes are:
- A leak: a dripping tap, a running toilet cistern or a hidden leak inside a wall keeps pulling the pressure down
- A faulty check (non-return) valve: when the pump stops, water flows back to the tank, pressure drops and the pump starts again
- A pressure tank that has lost its air charge or has a torn membrane: the pump starts and stops in short bursts every time a tap opens
- A pressure switch that has drifted out of adjustment or failed because of scale and dust
- An empty tank: with no water to draw, the pump cannot build pressure and may run continuously
Rapid on-off cycling wears out the motor and the switch quickly, so do not ignore it.
Why water pressure drops
Low pressure is not always the pump's fault. First check whether it affects one tap or the whole house. If it is one tap, the culprit is usually that tap's aerator or mixer; if it is everywhere, look at the pump, the pipework or the tank.
- Limescale in tap aerators and shower heads — common with the island's hard water
- A clogged filter at the pump inlet or sediment at the tank outlet
- Old galvanised pipes narrowed by scale over the years
- A worn pump, or one that was undersized for the number of floors and taps
- A low water level in the tank — typical on days when the mains supply is off or weak
Checks you can safely do yourself
These checks need nothing more than your eyes and ears, and they narrow the problem down. Telling the plumber what you found also speeds up the visit.
- Close every tap and wait: if the pump still starts on its own, suspect a leak or a faulty check valve
- Listen to the toilet cisterns; water constantly trickling into the bowl means the fill or flush valve is leaking
- Check that there is water in the tank and that the float valve works
- Unscrew the aerators and the shower head, soak them in vinegar and brush the scale off
- Look around the pump for damp patches, drips or rust marks
Leave the pump wiring, the pressure switch and the tank's air charge to a professional — there are both electrical and pressure hazards.
Power cuts and your pump
When Kıb-Tek cuts the power, the pump stops too, so you lose pressure even with a full tank. When the power returns the pump starts under full load, and voltage fluctuations strain the motor and switch. In areas with frequent cuts, a voltage protection device recommended by your plumber or electrician can extend the pump's life.
Homes that cannot do without water during long outages sometimes connect the pump to a generator or a backup power system. This has to be sized for the pump; an improvised connection can damage both the pump and the wiring.
What a plumber does and what affects the price
The plumber first checks for leaks, then the tank pressure, the check valve and the switch setting. Often the fix is recharging the tank or replacing a valve or switch; if the pump is worn out or too small for the house, a replacement may be suggested. The plumber can only quote after seeing the system; the main factors are:
- The cause: adjustment and servicing, a part replacement or tracing a hidden leak
- Which part is needed: membrane, check valve, pressure switch, tank or the pump itself
- Where the pump is and how easy it is to reach (roof, basement or a cramped cabinet)
- For a new pump, the capacity needed for your floors and taps
On UstamKKTC you can compare local plumbers' profiles and reviews and request a quote.
Frequently asked questions
My pump switches on at night by itself — why?
If no water is being used, it usually means a leak in the pipework or a check valve letting water flow back; a running toilet cistern can do it too. Watch the pump and the meter with all taps closed and tell the plumber what you see.
The pump keeps starting and stopping in short bursts — what causes that?
This usually means the pressure tank has lost its air charge or the membrane is damaged. A plumber can recharge the tank; a torn membrane means replacing the part or the tank.
What happens if the pump runs dry?
The pump is cooled by the water passing through it, so running dry can quickly ruin the seal and impeller. If the tank is empty, switch the pump off. A system with dry-run protection reduces this risk.
Only the shower has low pressure — is the pump broken?
If it is just one outlet, the shower head, aerator or mixer filter is most likely scaled up, and cleaning it usually helps. If pressure is low throughout the house, the pump and pipework should be checked.